Friday, May 15, 2020

03/02/20 -> 04/02/20 : Goa - Hampi

3/02 : Goa -> Hampi : Got up late and had nice breakfast. Repacked our bags, in the evening to travel to Hampi. We took overnight bus to Hampi. We booked our bus from Calungute to Panjim. From there we changed another bus to take us to Margoa. Again in this bus, I had sleeping berth, while Frankie opted for seat. I enjoyed away sleeping to reach Hampi next morning.

4/02 : Hampi : Arrived Hampi town at 8’o clock, where we had rickshaw to take us to our homestay hotel, known as Kushi Cottage. It was functional non a/c small hotel built from Bamboo sticks, just a room with double bed and clean bathroom/toilet.





The rickshaw driver suggested a half day trip to visit places across the Tungabadra river. We took up his offer to take us across. After breakfast of aloo puri and idli sambar, we left in the rick at 11.30, went across the bridge and drove to Anjaneya Hill. We had to climb 575 steps to reach the top hill, where temple in honour of Hanuman was built. It was a big effort to climb up the steps but it was worth the sight to view down the River Tungabadra and the boulders and ruins around.





This hill in Hampi believed to be the birthplace of Hanuman , is located in the center of Anegondi area. You can see this hill from the Hampi side of the river as you trek along the Kampa Bhups’s Path.

At the top of the hill is the temple dedicated for Hanuman, the monkey warrior god. According to Hindu mythology he was born to Anjana. Thus Hanuman is also known as Anjaneya and his birthplace as Anjaneyadri (Anjaneya’s hill). You can easily spot this hill from a distance, as the temple at the hilltop is whitewashed and a white trail of steps zigzagging all the way to the top.The icon of Hanuman is carved on the rock. Also is the small shrine for Rama and his consort Sita inside the temple.

The climb down from the hill was great. The view from the hilltop is marvelous. Patches of paddy fields looks like unsolved jigsaw puzzle, coconut tree plantations and the whole of the ruins sites is visible stretching into the horizon.

From here we drove to Pampasarowara Hill, where we climbed up to Durga Temple. Aadishakti temple in Anegundi with religious signifinace. During Dasara festival, there are cultural activities and procession of Elephant is also conducted. You must climb a bit to reach Durga temple. This temple was where the great Bali worshipped Ma Durga, later this was built into a temple and now it has more considerable construction. The vibes of the temple is extermely powerful, people go to seek blessings from Ma.



From here we drove To Ranganath Swamy Temple in Anegundi, dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Ranganatha Temple is a must-see temple of Hampi. It is also called Vishnu Temple. Vishnu, the preserver of the universe, can be seen here resting on the serpent Ananta. The shrine was built in rectangular shape with a porch outside it. The sanctum-sanctorum is dimly lit. It is better to visit the temple during the day time so that you can easily see the images inside it.. Housed inside the main shrine are the beautiful images of Lord Vishnu, his consorts and Lord Brahma. Lord Brahma, the creator of the Universe is seated on a lotus, which rises from the naval of Lord Vishnu.




Outside the temple there was a huge wooden chariot, which was used during the festival to cart the idols around in procession.

From here we drove down and went to Sanapur lake. It was beautiful sight to watch. One side we got to watch people jumping and swimming in the lake and on the other side, we were taken where the bamboo boat (coracle) with boat man was available for boating around. He was charging Rs. 500/- for half ride across the river. Expensive but worth the experience and we enjoyed the coracle ride. We returned back at 4pm, tired but enjoyed the day.



Rick driver had advised us to watch out for sunset from hilltop of Matanga or Hemakuta. So around 6pm, we climbed up the Hemakuta Hill (Trimukta Hill). This hill was adventurous and full of ruined temples (beautifully sculptured) around. All the idols have been taken away, hence no worship taking place and so we could explore around. It was strenous but worth the climb, to sit on the boulder on top of the hill. Many tourists had come there to wait and watch the sunset. From here we could watch the city of Hampi and Virupaksha temple complex and also, we had the monkeys around, trying to grab eatables, especially bananas. The sight of the sunset was worth the climb. It was so serene and beautiful to watch the red-hot big ball (Sun) going down across the horizon.





We climbed down the hill and landed at the temple complex of Virupaksha. We entered through a big beautifully carved arch (Gopuram) and there you got to meet a big Elephant (Laxmi), who gives blessings if fruits and money is offered. We walked around this big complex consisting of many small temples around. The main temple is dedicated to Shiva and Pampa Devi (Parvati). Around beautiful carvings on pyramidal towers and you have a big Nandi (bull) sitting. There is a big hall connected to community kitchen. This is used for many ceremonies, including marriage. This remains an active Hindu worship site and hence you can’t enter casually here. You have to cover your self and head.




Virupaksha temple's history is uninterrupted from about the 7th century. The Virupaksha-Pampa sanctuary existed well before the Vijayanagara capital was located here. Inscriptions referring to Shiva date back to the 9th and 10th centuries. What started as a small shrine grew into a large complex under the Vijayanagara rulers. Evidence indicates there were additions made to the temple in the late Chalukyan and Hoysala periods, though most of the temple buildings are attributed to the Vijayanagar period. The huge temple building was built by Lakkana Dandesha, a chieftain under the ruler Deva Raya II of the Vijayanagara Empire.

Under the Vijayanagara rulers, in the middle of the 14th century, there began a flowering of native art and culture. When the rulers were defeated by Muslim invaders in the 16th century, most of the wonderful decorative structures and creations were systematically destroyed.

The religious sect of Virupaksha-Pampa did not end with the destruction of the city in 1565. Worship there has persisted throughout the years. At the beginning of the 19th century there were major renovations and additions, which included ceiling paintings and the towers of the north and east gopura.




At present, the main temple consists of a sanctum, three ante chambers, a pillared hall and an open pillared hall. It is decorated with delicately carved pillars. A pillared cloister, entrance gateways, courtyards, smaller shrines and other structures surround the temple. A narrow channel of the Tungabhadra River flows along the temple's terrace and then descends to the temple-kitchen and out through the outer court.

Krishnadevaraya, one of the famous kings of the Vijayanagara Empire was a major patron of this temple. The most ornate of all structures in the temple, the central pillared hall is believed to be his addition to this temple. So is the gateway tower giving access to the inner courtyard of the temple. Inscriptions on a stone plaque installed next to the pillared hall explain his contribution to the temple. It is recorded that Krishna Devaraya commissioned this hall in 1510 AD to mark his accession. He also built the eastern gopuram. These additions meant that the central shrine came to occupy a relatively small part of the complex. The halls in the temple were used for a variety of purposes. Some were spaces in which the images of gods were placed to witness special programmes of music, dance, drama, etc. Others were used to celebrate the marriages of deities.

It turned dark and we returned back from the Temple. Went and refreshed our self and relaxed sitting outside our Bamboo hut and watching people passing by. We had veg dinner at small restaurant. Hampi is a temple town and so you get only veg meals and no alcohol. We were tired and had a good night sleep.

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